Saturday, April 18, 2009

Papeete, Tahiti

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click the arrow for a little background music


I spot Daniel, the Port Lecturer, coming out of the afternoon buffet holding a bowl of fruit and a large black umbrella. It is a beautifully sunshine-y day, so of course, I have to ask. He motions for me to hold his fruit while he opens the giant umbrella above us. I have to giggle; he has differently shaped and colored buttons sewn inside it, all representing the different constellations of the nighttime sky! He rotates its handle and the umbrella twirls, demonstrating the effect of the earth’s rotation on the constellations’ locations at different points in the night.

I smile. Daniel is definitely an original – a unique mix of not only Peter Pan, but Mary Poppins. He practically tumbles down the staircases in his enthusiastic fervor because his eyesight is so bad and he is so disoriented at times that he can’t find his way to the promenade deck and sometimes bangs his head into the glass doors that actually open onto the deck. But yet he can turn on his laser and point out each and every visible star in the skies and tell me how many miles they are from not only Earth but from each other.

I am glad that Daniel has been on these journeys with me, for even though he no doubt “stole” passengers away from my lecture when it coincided with a port lecture, we have spent countless hours ruminating on the complexities of both the universe, and of life, shared drinks together up on the highest decks, and most importantly, he has kept me light hearted and mindful of how blessed we have been to be in this wonderfully magical part of the world.

I run into three of my favorite students. We chat for awhile, and they insist on having their photos taken with me. They thank me profusely and tell me they loved my classes. I tell them that they have made this last voyage a special one for me. I mean it sincerely.

On the promenade deck tonight, I am wearing the necklace that my student Lisa gave me earlier this afternoon when we said our official goodbyes. As it turns out, I didn’t need to shop in Moorea after all. As I see my reflection in the mirror in the elevator, I decide that it looks really pretty on me. It is definitely not one I would have selected to buy, but it seems somehow perfect for me.

Having said most of my goodbyes and thank yous to helpful and friendly staff and crew members, by early evening, I find myself hugging the railing as we silently slide into Papeete’s tiny harbor, the twinkling lights on the hills look spectacular. Daniel stumbles out onto the deck one last time with a few passengers in tow. He points out constellations that helped guide ancient navigators to the South Pole. It is a circuitous route and I have already lost track midway in this lesson. He explains that this is a necessary evil as the South Pole does not have a polar star as we do up in the northern hemisphere - our polar star, the one we commonly call the North Star, that bright twinkling light that guides us to the North Pole. I secretly smile at the thought that I will see it once again in just a few short nights.

Susana, a buffet worker from Hungary, and good buddy of mine, joins me on deck once the stargazers leave and we chat for awhile about our plans for the evening, an overnight in port. A few vendors are outside in the park by the pier, grilling up local dishes for the families turning out for the evening. No doubt, many of the passengers and crew members will also be out later in the evening to sample their cooking. An enticing fragrance of lemon, and cardamom and various other spices rise up from the smoke and fill the air. Susana and advises me to go only to “Mommy’s” stall as she makes the best smoked duck and fried rice. It runs about $20. That seems a little unbelievable to me -$20 for street food. But nothing is inexpensive in French Polynesia.

I think about my favorite Bangladeshian street vendor on 14th Street, with his wonderful fragrant yellow rice and lamb for only $4. I realize that I am starting to look forward to going home tomorrow, and this will be on my shortlist, that’s for sure, along with seeing my Aunt, reconnecting with my beloved friends, going back to Yankee Stadium, sangria and guacamole at El Cantinero, and salsa dancing with E. I find myself curiously reassured by a sentiment expressed by Clint Eastwood’s character Robert in “The Bridges of Madison County”, on the tv the other morning: “One thing you can depend on is change. For some, that may be a frightening thought. But on the other hand, it could be a comforting one.” I decide at this moment that despite my desire to remain here for just a little while longer, that change is, in fact, good.

But tonight, my last night in Polynesia, my heart is reserved solely for Tahiti. As it turns out, I have a hot date with some of the Blue Boys in downtown Papeete. We will roam among the street vendors and perhaps have a few Hinano beers, and eventually, I will be sure to steer them to “Mommy’s” for that scrumptious smoked duck.

Hugs,
Jeana


J


Ia orana, te Vahine Tahiti
goodbye my lady Tahiti

ia orana tiare, e Moorea
goodbye tiare, flowerof Moorea

aue aue te noa noa te tiare Moorea
fragrant flower of Moorea

ia orana ua here I au ia oe Bora Bora
goodbye to all that I love in Bora Bora

Na temoana e ua reva ta' u tana iti e
From the ocean one day I will return to you


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